Full front embroidery size
A full front design on a T-shirt or sweatshirt is usually about 5 to 10 in (127 to 254 mm) wide, with its top 3 to 3.5 in (76 to 89 mm) below a crew neck. An 8 × 12 in hoop holds most of them, and wider designs need a 9.5 × 14 in hoop.
| Typical size | 7.5 × 9 in (191 × 229 mm) |
|---|---|
| Width range | 5–10 in (127–254 mm) |
| Height range | 5–12 in (127–305 mm) |
| Smallest hoop | 8 × 12 in (200 × 300 mm) |
| Machines that fit it | 35 in our guide |
Where to place it
Center the design on the shirt's center line, which you can find by finger-pressing a crease down the front. Put the top of the design about 3 to 3.5 in (76 to 89 mm) below the bottom edge of a crew neck on a sweatshirt. Some charts give 4 to 6 in (102 to 152 mm) from the neck for an adult shirt and 1.5 to 3 in (38 to 76 mm) for small sizes. Go a little lower on a narrow hemmed neck and higher on a scoop or V-neck.
A full front design is the big placement across the chest of a T-shirt, sweatshirt or hoodie, as opposed to a small left chest logo. Home-machine charts match it to large hoops: one retailer chart lists full-front shirt embroidery for the 8 × 12 in hoop, which stitches about 7.8 × 11.8 in (200 × 300 mm). The same chart lists 6 × 10 in and 5 × 7 in hoops for T-shirts, which suit a smaller chest design. A design wider than 7.8 in (198 mm) needs the 9.5 × 14 in hoop, and one wider than about 9.4 in (239 mm) needs a split design or a machine with a bigger frame. Check your own field in the manual.
Placement is measured from the neck, and guides differ. One guide puts the top of a sweatshirt design 3 to 3.5 in (76 to 89 mm) below the bottom of the crew neck edge. Another says a traditional sweatshirt placement is 3 in (76 mm) down from the neck, and 2.5 in (64 mm) down on a child-size sweatshirt with a smaller design. A placement chart gives 4 to 6 in (102 to 152 mm) from the neck for an adult shirt front and 1.5 to 3 in (38 to 76 mm) for small sizes. A T-shirt tutorial from one embroidery educator sits the top of its design about 1 in (25 mm) below the collar, so the right spot depends on the design and the neckline. Hold a printed template on the shirt before you mark it.
For children's shirts, use a smaller design and place it closer to the neck, as the child-size examples above do. We did not find a published width chart for kids, so measure the garment rather than scaling adult numbers blindly.
Knit shirts and sweatshirts need a cutaway stabilizer, because a full front design adds a lot of stitches and tear-away does not hold knits still. One educator uses two layers of fusible polymesh cutaway on a T-shirt, and another uses a medium-weight cutaway on a sweatshirt, which softens after a wash or two. Choose an open, lighter design for T-shirts, because dense fills can pucker or feel heavy on thin knit. A water-soluble topping keeps stitches from sinking into knit or fleece. Do not stretch the knit when you hoop it.
Tips
- Press a crease down the center of the shirt with your fingers and line it up with the vertical mark on your hoop template.
- Print the design at 100% size, lay it on the shirt, and check the spot against the neckline before you hoop.
- Use cutaway stabilizer under a full front design. A medium-weight cutaway works on sweatshirts, and one or two layers of polymesh cutaway work on thin T-shirts.
- Add a water-soluble topping on fleece and textured knits so stitches sit on top of the fabric.
- Hoop the shirt as it lies, roll or clip the excess fabric out of the way, and use a ballpoint needle in size 75/11.
Check this size on your machine
Machines that can stitch a full front design
These machines hold the typical 7.5 × 9 in size in one hooping.
- Brother PR1055X (14 × 8 in)
- Brother PR680W (12 × 8 in)
- Ricoma EM-1010 (12.2 × 8.3 in)
- Janome Memory Craft 550E (14 × 8 in)
- Janome Memory Craft 500E (11 × 8 in)
- Janome MB-7 (9.5 × 8 in)
- Melco EMT16X (16.1 × 15.5 in)
- Janome MB-4S (9.5 × 8 in)
- Ricoma MT-1501 (19.7 × 14 in)
- Brother PR1050X (14 × 8 in)
- Brother VM5200 (8 × 12 in)
- Brother PR1000e (14 × 8 in)
- Melco BRAVO (12.7 × 10.5 in)
- Brother PR655 (12 × 8 in)
- Brother Stellaire XE1 (9.5 × 14 in)
- Brother Luminaire XP3 (10.7 × 16.1 in)
- Brother Stellaire XJ1 (9.5 × 14 in)
- Brother Dream Machine 2 XV8550D (9.5 × 14 in)
- Pfaff creative 4.5 (14 × 13.8 in)
- Baby Lock Array (12 × 8 in)
- Baby Lock Venture (14 × 8 in)
- Bernina B 700 E (15.7 × 8.3 in)
- Pfaff Creative Sensation Pro (14 × 13.8 in)
- Pfaff creative 3.0 (10 × 8 in)
And 11 more. See all machines.
Frequently asked questions
How big can a full front embroidery design be?
On a home machine it is limited by the hoop. An 8 × 12 in hoop stitches about 7.8 × 11.8 in (200 × 300 mm), and a 9.5 × 14 in hoop stitches about 9.4 × 14.1 in (240 × 360 mm). Larger designs need a split design or a bigger machine frame.
How far below the collar does a full front design start?
About 3 to 3.5 in (76 to 89 mm) below the crew neck edge on a sweatshirt, per one placement guide. Some charts say 4 to 6 in (102 to 152 mm) for an adult shirt. Child-size shirts go closer, at about 2.5 in (64 mm) in one example.
Which hoop do I need for a full front T-shirt design?
An 8 × 12 in hoop is the size one retailer chart gives for full-front shirt designs. A smaller chest design can go in a 6 × 10 in or 5 × 7 in hoop.
Do I need stabilizer for a full front design?
Yes. Use a cutaway stabilizer, because T-shirts and sweatshirts stretch and a large design adds weight. Tear-away is meant for woven, non-stretch fabric.
Sources
- support.oesd.com/article/37-monogram-placement
- support.oesd.com/article/47-how-to-embroider-a-t-shirt
- support.oesd.com/article/39-machine-embroidery-on-knit-garments
- emblibrary.com/blogs/projects/fabrics-101-embroidering-on-sweatshirts
- allstitch.com/pages/embroidery-placement-chart
- bsewinn.com/blogs/inspiration/embroidery-hoop-size-chart
- nancyzieman.com/blog/embroidery-2/stabilizer-know-how/
- brother-usa.com/products/XE2