Machine embroidery appliqué: how it works step by step

Machine appliqué usually runs in four stages: the machine stitches a placement line, a tack-down stitch holds the fabric in place, you trim the extra fabric close to the stitches, and a satin or other cover stitch seals the raw edge. Some designs add a separate cutting line, so the trim comes before the tack-down. Any embroidery machine can do it if the design is digitized for appliqué, because that file stops the machine between stages.

Appliqué on an embroidery machine means stitching a shape cut from one fabric onto another and then covering its edge with stitches. The machine does the outlining and the edge work, and you place and trim the fabric in between. The design file must be digitized for appliqué, because that is what makes the machine stop at each stage.

Appliqué also keeps stitch counts low. Bernina says that using fabric as the background of a design, instead of a stitched fill, cuts the stitch count drastically, so you can stitch a larger design with fewer stitches. Brother and Bernina are named below because their published instructions explain the steps. This site is not affiliated with either maker.

The four stages at a glance

Most appliqué designs follow the same order. Designs usually give each stage its own color change, or a stop command, which is how the machine knows to pause.

Stage	What the machine does	What you do
1. Placement line	Stitches the outline of the shape on the base fabric, then stops	Check that the outline sits where you want the shape
2. Tack-down	Stitches the fabric to the base with a straight stitch or a zigzag	Lay the fabric over the outline and smooth it flat first
3. Trim	Stays stopped	Cut away the extra fabric close to the tack-down (or cutting-line) stitches
4. Cover stitch	Sews a satin stitch (or another decorative stitch) over the raw edge	Watch, and trim thread tails if needed

The middle of the order varies by design. Bernina describes designs with a separate cutting line, which you stitch and trim along before a tack-down sewn slightly inside it, and designs that combine the cutting line and the tack-down into one color change, with the trim after it. Look at your machine’s color list or the design’s instruction sheet to see which kind you have, and trim wherever the design stops for it.

What you need

An appliqué design. Commercial designs list the stages. Some machines also include appliqué designs built in.
Base fabric and stabilizer. Hoop them as you would for any other design. See our stabilizer guide and our guide to hooping fabric.
Appliqué fabric. A piece larger than the outline, pressed flat.
Something to hold it in place. Fusible web, temporary spray adhesive, a little craft glue or tape. Brother’s manual also says to baste the piece if glue will not hold.
Sharp curved or duckbill appliqué scissors. They let you cut close to the stitches without nicking the base fabric.
Thread. Match the cover stitch color to the fabric for a quiet look, or contrast it to make the edge a feature.

Step by step: trimming in the hoop

This is often called the trim-in-place method. The fabric is cut while the base fabric stays hooped.

Hoop the base. Hoop the base fabric with stabilizer, attach the hoop and start the design. Brother’s manual says to keep the base fabric in the hoop until the whole design is finished, and to trim thread tails at each color change.
Stitch the placement line. The machine sews the outline of the shape and stops. This line is only a positioning guide, and the appliqué fabric will cover it.
Lay the fabric over it. Place the appliqué fabric right side up so it covers every stitch of the placement line, with some extra all around. Smooth it flat, and hold it with spray adhesive, fusible web or tape. Bernina’s trim-in-place instructions say the fabric must cover all of the stitches.
Stitch the tack-down. The machine sews the fabric to the base around the shape. Bernina says this is a straight stitch or a zigzag, placed slightly inside the edge of the shape. If your design has a separate cutting line first, stitch that line, trim along it as in step 5, then let the tack-down run.
Trim. At the stop meant for trimming (right after the tack-down in many designs), take the hoop off the machine but leave the fabric in it, and set the hoop on a flat surface. Cut away the excess fabric right up to the stitch line. Do not pull or push the fabric while you cut, because Brother warns that it can loosen in the hoop.
Stitch the cover stitch. Put the hoop back and let the machine finish. The satin stitch covers the cut edge and the tack-down line. If a few fabric threads still poke past the tack-down, trim again before the cover stitch so they do not sit outside it.

Pre-cut or trim in the hoop?

Bernina calls the other approach the pattern method. You cut the appliqué fabric to shape before you stitch, then drop it inside the placement line. You can trace the stitched placement line onto tracing paper, print a pattern from your software, or cut the shape with a cutting machine.

	Trim in the hoop	Pre-cut
Extra tools	Curved scissors	Printout, tracing paper or a cutting machine
Machine stops	One extra stop to trim	No trimming stop
Intricate shapes	Hard to cut around tight details	Easier and cleaner
Placement	More forgiving, because the fabric is oversized	Less forgiving, because the shape must sit exactly in the outline
Batches	Trim each one	Cut many at once

Machine Embroidery Geek says pre-cutting gives a clean finish, saves taking the hoop off to trim, lets you cut several pieces at once, and avoids the worry of slicing the base fabric when you trim inside a closed shape. It also says the method may take some practice. In its example, Embrilliance Essentials makes the outline from the placement stitch and adds about 1/16 in (1.5 mm) by default, so the tack-down still catches the fabric.

Bernina says pre-cutting is the better choice in two cases. One is a very intricate shape. The other is a cover stitch with open gaps, such as a blanket stitch, where the cutting line and tack-down stitches of the trim-in-place method could show through. Designs with that kind of cover stitch usually leave the tack-down out.

If you make the piece ahead of time by stitching a cutting line on stabilized appliqué fabric, as Brother’s manual describes, cut right along that line or just outside it, never inside it. Cutting inside the line leaves the piece too small for the cover stitch to catch.

Choosing appliqué fabric

Start with a woven cotton. Machine Embroidery Geek suggests a fabric that is not too thin and does not unravel easily, such as quilting cotton. Pre-wash cotton, because fabric that shrinks differently from the base can leave a bumpy finish.
Press first. Wrinkles move the fabric and distort the placement.
Use fusible web on loose or thin fabric. Machine Embroidery Geek fuses a lightweight web to the back of its appliqué fabric to help limit fraying. Brother’s manual suggests an iron-on adhesive sheet for thin fabric, and Bernina suggests stiffening fabric with spray starch and adding a fusible appliqué backing before you cut it.
Felt and denim are options. Brother’s manual suggests felt or denim for the appliqués made with its own function, because lighter fabrics can make the stitching look smaller.
Stretchy knits are possible but need care. Machine Embroidery Geek suggests a t-shirt-weight knit for raw-edge designs. Test a scrap first, because knits can stretch when you handle them.

Raw-edge and decorative cover stitches

Not every design uses a satin border. Some use a blanket stitch, zigzag or other decorative stitch, and some leave the cut edge raw, with a plain line of stitching only holding it down. Machine Embroidery Geek describes these raw-edge designs as two rounds of stitching: the placement line and a dense running stitch, with the fabric trimmed close to it. A raw edge has a casual look and can fray a little over time, and fusible web on the back of the fabric can help limit that.

The Ink/Stitch tutorial says to choose the thread by effect. Use a matching color or a very fine thread when you want the edge to disappear, and a contrasting color when you want it to show.

Common mistakes

The fabric does not cover the placement line. If any stitch peeks out, the tack-down will miss the fabric there. Cut the fabric larger and check coverage before restarting.
Taking the base fabric out of the hoop. Take the hoop off the machine, not the fabric off the hoop. Brother says to keep the base fabric hooped until the design is done, and fabric that comes out is hard to put back in exactly the same place.
Cutting inside the line. On a pre-cut shape, an undersized piece cannot be caught by the cover stitch. On an in-hoop trim, cutting into the tack-down stitches leaves loose threads.
Snipping the base fabric. Rest the hoop flat on a table, use sharp curved appliqué scissors and cut in small steps. The aim is to cut right up to the stitch line without cutting the base fabric or the stitches.
Leaving wrinkles or bubbles. Smooth the fabric before the tack-down and make sure it is held down well, because loose fabric can shift. If puckering keeps happening, see our puckering troubleshooting guide.
Too much glue. Brother tells you to clean any glue off the presser foot, needle and needle plate after stitching. Use a thin layer.
Forgetting the size. Appliqué is still limited to the hoop and the machine’s embroidery field. Brother’s manual adds that its appliqué-piece function makes the pattern larger by adding an outline, so leave about 3/8 in (1 cm) between the pattern and the edge of the embroidery area. Use the will-it-fit tool to check.
Ignoring the needle. Fabric, web and stabilizer add up to a thicker stack than a normal design. Check that your needle suits the layers; our needle guide explains sizes and types.

Which machine do you need?

Any embroidery machine that reads your design file format can stitch appliqué, since it only follows the stops the file sets. What matters more is hoop size, because the shape and its outline must fit within the machine’s field. If you are choosing a first machine, see our beginner machine list and keep your intended appliqué size in mind.

Frequently asked questions

Can any embroidery machine do appliqué?

Yes, as long as you have a design digitized for appliqué. The machine only stitches; the design file makes it stop after the placement line and again where you need to trim, so you can place and cut the fabric. Some machines also ship with appliqué designs built in.

Should I pre-cut appliqué shapes or trim them in the hoop?

Trimming in the hoop needs no extra tools beyond curved scissors and suits simple shapes. Pre-cutting is easier for intricate shapes, for batches of the same design, and for designs with an open cover stitch such as a blanket stitch, where the tack-down could otherwise show.

What stitch covers the raw edge in appliqué?

Most designs use a satin stitch, which is a dense zigzag-style line that fully hides the cut edge. Other decorative stitches, such as a blanket stitch, are also used, and some raw-edge designs skip the cover stitch altogether.

How close should I trim the fabric to the tack-down?

As close as you can without cutting the base fabric or the stitches. Curved appliqué scissors help, and the fabric should still reach the tack-down line all the way around so the cover stitch can catch it.

Do I need fusible web for machine appliqué?

It is not required, but makers often suggest it: fusing a lightweight web to the back of thin or loosely woven fabric helps limit fraying and keeps the shape steady while you work. Follow the web maker's heat and timing directions.