Embroidery needle sizes
An embroidery needle size is a pair of numbers such as 75/11 that gives the shaft thickness; a bigger number means a thicker needle for heavier fabric or thread.
A machine embroidery needle size is written as two numbers, such as 75/11. The first is the metric (European) size, which is the width of the needle shaft in hundredths of a millimeter, so a 75 is 0.75 mm (about 0.03 in) wide. The second is the American size. In both systems a lower number means a thinner needle. Embroidery needles also have a larger eye and a wider groove down the front than an ordinary sewing needle, so embroidery thread slides through without shredding.
Size matters because the needle has to suit both the fabric and the thread. OESD says a needle that is too large can cause looping or loose tension, and can leave holes in fabric or runs in knits. A needle that is too thin for the job can break thread or bend. The point type works alongside the size: a sharp point suits tightly woven fabric such as quilting cotton, and a ballpoint pushes knit fibers aside instead of cutting them.
Three sizes cover most work. OESD calls 75/11 the most common embroidery size, for average-weight quilting cotton, satin and similar fabric. It lists 80/12 for heavier cotton, batiks, linen and garment-weight fabric, and 90/14 for heavy fabric such as denim and heavy sweatshirt fleece. Brother tells its home-machine users to use a 75/11 for embroidery, and a 90/14 for heavyweight fabric or stabilizer such as denim or puffy foam, where a 75/11 may bend or break. OESD suggests choosing the smallest size that suits the fabric and moving up only when needed. Heavier thread and dense designs usually call for a larger needle, while a design with many layers of stitches may do better with a smaller one.
A titanium-coated needle costs more but lasts longer. OESD says to change a standard needle after about 5 hours of actual stitching and a titanium one after about 25 hours, and to change it at the first sign of trouble.
Common mistakes: using a plain sewing needle instead of an embroidery needle, running one needle until thread starts to shred, stitching with a bent needle, and using a needle made for another kind of machine. Check your manual, because Brother says to use only needles made for home sewing machines in its home machines.
Example: A left-chest logo about 3.5 in (90 mm) wide on a cotton jersey T-shirt: start with a 75/11 ballpoint embroidery needle. The same logo on a heavy denim jacket: move up to a 90/14. These are starting points, so stitch a sample on scrap fabric with the same stabilizer first.
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Frequently asked questions
What size needle do I use for machine embroidery?
A 75/11 embroidery needle is the usual starting point. OESD calls it the most common embroidery size, and Brother recommends it for embroidery on its home machines. Move up to 90/14 for heavy fabric such as denim or for thick stabilizer or foam.
What do the two numbers on a needle mean?
The first number is the metric size, which is the shaft width in hundredths of a millimeter. A 75 is 0.75 mm (about 0.03 in) and a 90 is 0.9 mm (about 0.035 in). The second number is the American size, such as 11 or 14. A lower number means a thinner needle.
How often should I change my embroidery needle?
OESD says about every 5 hours of actual stitching for a standard needle and about every 25 hours for a titanium one. Change it sooner if thread breaks or shreds, stitches look poor, or the fabric shows holes or runs.